Georgia

We took off from Charleston when the sun finally came out.  Through Georgia it is important to pay attention to the tide, and leave on a rising tide.  That way if you get stuck you will float off the mud ... hopefully ...

Charleston from the Water

 

Many homes have long docks across the marsh with some shade at the end.

Pelican sitting on a marker

Thought we would stop in Beaufort, but it was early, and we kept going to an anchorage on the Ashepoo River.  Very pretty spot.  Quiet and calm.  We'll have to make a stop in Beaufort on the way north.  The next day (Thanksgiving) we continued south past Hilton Head to the May River and another night on the hook.  I didn't cook turkey, but we did have a small ham and stuffing and veggies. For years Jeff has asked me to break tradition and make ham for turkey day (such a rebel).  This year I finally gave in.  I think he really likes left over ham better than left over turkey.

Some sailors joined us on the Ashepoo River anchorage

The May River was tree lined in places and protected

Again we changed plans, and decided to go to the Isle of Hope Marina for the weekend and rent a car to drive to Savannah.  I am glad we made that choice.  When we crossed the Savannah River it was narrow and swift.  When we saw how big the container ships are that go up and down I was doubly glad we didn't go to downtown Savannah by boat.  Isle of Hope is a lovely area with beautiful homes along the river and quiet shady streets.

A beautiful home in Isle of Hope.  All the old oak trees have Spanish Moss dripping off their branches.

On Sat we drove to the city, explored and took a trolley tour.  It is a beautiful city with squares (small parks) evenly spaced throughout the downtown area.  Each square has a monument and is surrounded by beautiful homes, churches and other buildings.  The river front is on a bluff, up above the river.  The old cotton warehouses at the bottom of the hill have been converted into shops and restaurants.  We took a stroll along the waterfront and through the nearby city market.

One of many squares in Savannah.

Ornate Wrought  Iron gate

Savannah River Front

Sunday morning was for provisioning and laundry.  In the PM we drove out to Tybee Island.  The approach is like the drive down the keys, but the main street reminded me of the Jersey shore.  We enjoyed a nice lunch and a walk on the beach.  Our first touch of sand this trip.  So, Monday was the 4th night, and so we stayed (4th night is free).  Sunny, warm and relaxing.

Gulls on Tybee Island Beach

Jeff on Tybee Island Beach

This morning we got up early - left at dawn to have high water - and headed south again.  We are now anchored in "New Teakettle Creek" between the muddy, grass covered banks.  We just turned around with the current, so maybe we will be able to see over the top later when we have gone up 8 feet with the tide.

New Teakettle Creek anchorage

Shrimp boat

Charleston, SC

     We have enjoyed a week here in Charleston, SC.  We are staying at the Charleston Maritime Center, located in the downtown area, walking distance from everything, including a great supermarket, pharmacy and a hardware store.

GoodTidings at the Charleston Maritime Center

View from GoodTidings

      I went to the Aquarium - very nice exhibit of the various habitats found in South Carolina from the mountain streams to the salt marsh and ocean.  They have a central 2 story high tank with coral reefs and a lot of large fish including schools of fish that keep to the top, and those that like the deeper water.

Park in front of the Aquarium

Lobster at the Aquarium - not my dinner

These I would love to see in the wild

lovely alligator - behind glass thankfully

     We walked to the "Charleston Market" full of crafts and handmade baskets and browsed the more modern street with many upscale boutiques and had southern BBQ sandwiches in a pub.  On my birthday we went to dinner at "Fleet Landing" and enjoyed a gourmet meal starting with "Hush Puppies" - deep fried corn bread stuffed with creamy shrimp and lobster. They were fantastic.  I even had grits - also creamy and delicious.

Shops on King Street

Handmade baskets in the style of west Africa, the craft brought over by slaves.  The skill is still artfully practiced.

     Today I walked down East Bay Street to the Battery and saw many old colonial and civil war era stately homes along the water and park.  Many of them have gated gardens and 3 story deep set porches.  This is a lovely place to be and explore, even though it has been cold, windy and rainy all week.  Got a chance to catch up on some chores as well as read a good book.

Houses from the mid 1700's to the Civil War era

Our next stops will be Beaufort, SC and Savannah, GA, then on to Fernandina Beach, FL and a visit from Jeff's brother Pete.

We wish everyone a Happy Thanksgiving.

Down to the NC Coast

We spent several days at River Dunes because of the nor'easter that brought an early snow to NY and NJ.  We hope all is well and that you are all hanging in after the second storm.

Beautiful river heading south toward Beaufort, NC

We waited until the weather changed to head south past Beaufort/Morhead City.  We decided to skip through and continued on to Wrightsville Beach.  The landscape changes as you get to Beaufort and are now close to the Atlantic and beach and sand.  We now have to pay close attention to shoaling and current and passed through 4 bridges that we needed to wait until their scheduled openings.  When we arrived we found a lovely spot to drop the hook and relax.  We finally felt like sitting outside - but with plenty of fleece to stay warm.

We passed Camp LeJeune on the way - They use the ICW for practice

OK - PINK house!!

One of the bridges - we waited almost an hour

Yes, we will pay attention to the shoals

Wrightsville Beach Anchorage

Saturday AM found us moving slowly through NC.  In the adorable town of Southport, NC, at the south end of the Cape Fear River, we were able to tie to the single town free dock spot!  We were welcomed by the MTOA harbor captain who told us that they were having their "Halloween Pirate Regatta" today because it was cancelled by Sandy 2 weeks ago.  SO, we had - HALLOWEEN - in November.  Absolutely gorgeous weather and warm enough to have lunch in an outdoor restaurant to watch the pirate regatta.  

Pirates - Halloween in November

Pelican posing for the camera

We had lunch at this restaurant and watched the Pirate Regatta

All is well and we plan to be in Charleston, SC on Tues. 11-13 for about a week.  After that we will move south through Georgia - stay tuned.

North Carolina

The north eastern North Carolina section of the ICW goes through several National Wildlife Refuges and much swamp and forest land.  The trip through The Dismal Swamp from where we stayed for Hurricane Sandy, took us to Elizabeth City.  A beautiful section of winding river with big trees and interesting shoreline that had great reflections in the water.  In Elizabeth City we found a spot on the free town dock.  Barbara and Ken Hyman came by from their marina in a courtesy car and took us to the supermarket for some provisions. 

Below left - the Dismal Swamp - is not at all "dismal"          Right - Elizabeth City free dock

Next morning we went from there south across the Albermarle Sound and down the Alligator River with a flock of sailboats that had all been waiting out the storm with us.  We definitely had sail envy because the waves and wind were right on the beam, and they were all heeled over while we bumped (not lumped) back and forth.  We, of course, got there first and anchored and relaxed for the rest of the day. 

Alligator River Anchorage - some was burnt out

The next day found us going through a 20 mile straight man made cut to the Pungo River.  The refuge had a fire several years ago, and there are many burnt and dead trees, but also the beginnings of new growth.  We went to the lovely Dowry Creek Marina that is near Bel Haven.  The great crew met us at the dock with invitations to their daily "bring your own happy hour" in their club house.  We enjoyed the company of some other boaters and the owner and of course some Chardonnay.

Gathering place at Dory Creek Marina - it was too cold for a swim, but warm inside

Dawn in Dowry Creek

Comercial fishing boats near Pamlico River Crossing

 
Yesterday we got up early and made our way down the Pungo River, across the Pamlico river, through another man made canal to the Neuse River almost to Oriental. We came to the River Dunes Marina because the Active Captain team Karen and Jeff Siegel are making a presentation about medical emergencies aboard.  (It was very good and informative.  Lots of information about how to prepare, and what to do first, second, third if something happens until the pros get to you, or you get to them).

River Dunes Marina

River Dunes landscaped waterfront

This is a resort atmosphere with beautiful modern facilities, a carefully landscaped shoreline with private homes and some rental cottages, restaurant, pool, fitness center, walking paths and meeting room for the conference.  We will be here a couple more days and plan to go to Oriental tomorrow to sight see and shop.  More on that soon.